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Post by commanche on Dec 18, 2003 21:10:11 GMT -5
does anyone want to offer their measurements on a homemade ladderstand?type of wood ,lengths,etc. thanks  |
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Post by deerslayer11 on Dec 18, 2003 21:32:59 GMT -5
I use these some.  If you have any welding skills I think they are the best for the $. I think you could build one for $50. We are going to make several this summer. I dont have measurements here, but I can post em when we measure the ones we have. |
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Post by noonebil on Dec 18, 2003 23:25:05 GMT -5
Here's how I do it.
Go to Wal-Mart.
Buy 12 ft Hunterview ladder stand.
Buy 6 feet pipe insulation
Buy roll of electrical tape
Buy burlap camo blind material
Find place in woods to place it.
Follow instructions to build.
Insulate gun rail
Run camo burlap around gun rail
Hunt
Total cost...$145
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Post by flhuntress on Dec 19, 2003 1:33:37 GMT -5
someone recently pointed out something about not using pine unless you have pines in your area because that'll possibly spook em.
nice stand ds. ;D
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Post by Shorthair on Dec 19, 2003 4:57:29 GMT -5
If you can wait until deer and duck seasons are over I'll put up drawing with dimentions to my wooden ones. I've got one laying in the back yard right now.
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Post by BlueNorther on Dec 19, 2003 10:16:54 GMT -5
We've welded up two 15' ladder stands for 50 bucks in materials each.We modified the designs for what we wanted.
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Dave1
SHF New Member
Posts: 94
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Post by Dave1 on Dec 19, 2003 13:08:40 GMT -5
Commanche
Wooden stands are very heavy, difficult to move around, set-up, etc. and usally don't last but a couple of seasons unless you build all out of preasure treated wood then it is even heavier. Those may require a crane to set up.
I tried some of the wooden ladder stands but abandoned them because of the weight and problems mentioned. I then started building my own ladder and chain on style stands, made them out of EMT steel conduit, and welded or brazed all together. They are great stands, fairly lightweight, easily portable, quick set-up, and you can build them to any deminsion you want and in any style. I still have and use six of them. Some are over 15 years old but have been rebuilt a time or two.
The homebuilt 16' ladder steel conduit stands required about $70 worth of conduit, platform board, chain, turn buckle, paint, etc. and required alot of hours to freehand cut, fit, weld, and paint.
Considering that for around $120-$150 you can buy a nice factory made stand that is ready to go to the woods, it just doesn't seem practical to spend the time and money to build my own stands any longer. (I could be getting lazier also)
In the last few years I have bought several of the aluminum API Baby Grand fixed position stands and API aluminum 16' Stik Ladders. This is a good combination if you can set it up and leave it there as long as you want without fear of theft. The aluminum products may be slightly more expensive but are well worth it because it will never rust and will last forever.
I make some modifications to the stands to make them more comfy and useful for bow, muzz, and handgun. Main things I do is: 1)remove the factory seat and replace it with a milk crate and 2" thick boat cushion. 2)add camo to three sides. 3)add a piece of plywood (wider/longer than platform) and indoor/outdoor carpet to the platform.
If you are hunting public land, I think the aluminum climbers are the way to go because they can be hauled in/out everyday if needed.
Dave1
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Post by commanche on Dec 19, 2003 16:46:00 GMT -5
problem with portable stands in winter,its tiring to haul in and out with all these clothes on.its nice to be able to go out in dark next day after being tired and just climb up the ladder stand.also you can use real big trees to sit against that you cant use with a climber. also no noise.yes, problem is state land but they dont seem to want the ladder stands here. low lifes want the climbing ones or lock on ones the most.ladder stands are great for comfort and in a wind they are the best.i see them on the e bay for 60 dollars used,thanks all ,keep info coming
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Post by RedOak on Dec 19, 2003 20:51:50 GMT -5
Take 2 2x4s however long you want the stand to be tall. On these nail 2 foot long 2x4s to form the ladder. The last step at the top I make it so the 2x4 is horrizontal with the ground so I can put my feet on it. Take an 8 foot 2x4 and cut in half. Nail these to the top at such an angle that the ladder will have some slope to it. I put 1/2 inch plywood on this and cut a V in it for the tree. I dont cut a full V But once the two lines are about a foot or so apart I cut between them. At this point I nail a board between those 2 four foot top pieces. From this going to the rear at the edge of my cutout on the plywood I nail a 2x4 to stiffen up the top. I don't a;ways do this last bit as I have some with just notched plywood on top and they work fine too.
Yeah wood stands are heavy. That means they are just as heavy for a theif to tote out as for you to tote in.
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Post by Shorthair on Dec 19, 2003 21:47:23 GMT -5
Wooden stands are very heavy, difficult to move around, set-up, etc. and usally don't last but a couple of seasons unless you build all out of preasure treated wood then it is even heavier. Those may require a crane to set up. I must admit this is very true about mine.  But when I put one up it stay there for years. So I guees this might not be a good option for you on public land. I will still throw together some rough plans if you want. |
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Dave1
SHF New Member
Posts: 94
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Post by Dave1 on Dec 20, 2003 6:39:17 GMT -5
I agree, there is nothing better than an already set up tree stand where we don't have to haul in/out daily and can just walk in and climb up.
If you can set a stand out there and leave it, you have many options.
What I learned on my first few home built ladder stands is that on the ladder part, it did not have to be any wider than the width of my two feet/boots together. This enabled me to cut some weight out i.e. build it narrower and lighter, which is also creates less visibility in the woods.
Because of the weight and difficulty of hauling in and setting up one of these heavy stands keep the height low as you can stand for where you hunt. I prefer a ladder stand to be 16' tall for good visibility, better downwind scent control, etc. but I don't think you could build a wooden ladder stand that tall and be able to get it up without much help or a crane. My 16 footers are the welded steel conduit versions I mentioned earlier. They are light and very quick/easy to set up.
I made the platforms on all of my stands 30" or 32" long by 24" wide. Build the actual platform frame narrower then nail on the wider platform board. This size platform provides ample room for sitting comfortably. On the platform I put a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet. The carpet allows me to move around noiselessly. For a seat I have always used milk crates and a 2" thick boat cushion. This free standing seat can be moved around on the platform so as you can face and shoot in just about any direction while sitting.
Camo the stand and platform well. Take some large tree branches and tie to the ladder part. Stagger them on one side then the other all the way to the top but leave the ladder part open and unobstructed so you can climb up/down without making noise. Camo the platform with tree branches or attach wooden dowel rods around the platform and add camo material from WalMart. You can also build a shooting rail around the platform that can double as a mount for your camo material.
If you don't do the shooting rail thing, cut a good stick and leave in the stand to use as a shooting stick. A good 1 1/2" diameter stout stick can be a great shooting stick that can really help steady your gun for a long shot.
Hope these ideas help.
Dave1
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But when I put one up it stay there for years. So I guees this might not be a good option for you on public land. I will still throw together some rough plans if you want.